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Eilean Donan Castle
The origins of Eilean Donan stretch way back in time. The remains of a Pictish
fort were found in vitrified rock when excavations once took place on the
island. Opposite the castle is the sculptured impression of a human
foot in a stone. These have been found in other parts of Scotland at
the entrance to Iron Age settlements. The name Eilean Donan is Gaelic
for Island of Donan, a 7th century saint who is thought to have lived there
as a religious hermit.
The missionary work of Abbot Donan (who was reputedly a contemporary of famous
Saint Columba) took him from SW Scotland through Ayrshire northwards and into
Sutherland. Presumably he then passed westwards, for churches bearing
his name exist in Loch Carron, Loch Broom, Kildonan in Skye and at Eilean
Donan where a small oratory or cell stood. He then moved
to a monastic foundation on Eigg where, while celebrating the Holy Eucharist
on Sunday April 17, 618, the monastery was raided by a band of marauders
and Abbot Donan together with 52 of his companions were beheaded. Extract
from the Martyrology of Donegal... And there came robbers of the sea on a
certain time to the island when he was celebrating mass. He requested
of them not to kill him until the mass was said, and they gave him this respite;
and he was afterwards beheaded and 52 of his monks along with him.
In 1263 a vast fleet led by King Haakon IV of Norway made its way southwards
down Kyle of Lochalsh and past Eilean Donan on its way to do battle with
Alexander III of Scotland at Largs. Resoundingly defeated, the broken
remnants of the Norwegian fleet limped back home, stopping here only to revictual
their vessels. This marked the end of almost four and a half centuries
of Scandinavian control for, by the Treaty of Perth in 1266, the northern
mainland and the isles passed nominally at least into the hands of the Scottish
Crown. In return for his assistance during the fighting, the Earl of
Ross was granted vast territories in the north including the Isle of Skye
and much of the mainland opposite. In 1263, Alexander III gave the
castle to Colin Fitzgerald, son of the Earl of Desmond and Kildare (later
to become MacKenzies) as a reward for his services in the Battle of Largs.
Only excavation can now determine whether 'Scandinavian' defences underlie
the stone keep and its outer enclosing wall as none of the visible remains
appear to date earlier than the later 13th century at the earliest and most
likely do not predate the 14th century. At the close of the 13th century
it was firmly in the hands of Kenneth MacKenzie despite attempts by the Earl
of Ross to wrest it from him.
The castle at this time may well be that whose outer defences are now only
faintly visible in part around the island well beyond the contracted defences
of its successor. Traditionally, it is believed that in the early part
of the 14th century, Robert the Bruce, out of favour with many of the clan
chiefs as well as being hunted by the English, was given refuge in Eilean
Donan Castle by John MacKenzie, Second of Kintail. Later in 1331 the
fortunes of Robert the Bruce had changed. He had defeated his enemies
and established his position as King of Scotland. He sent his nephew
Randolph, Earl of Moray and Warden of Scotland, to Kintail.
The guidebook tells us that at this time little respect for the law was being
shown by the local populace and it was here that Randolph's "Crownare" -
crown officer - beheaded 50 local 'miscreants' and displayed their heads around
the battlements of Eilean Donan Castle.
During the 14th century, Eilean Donan was the subject of a dispute between
the MacKenzies and the Earldom of Ross. The Earldom laid claim to the
castle and threatened to back the claim with force. However, a charter
of David II in 1362 confirmed the MacKenzies' possession. By this time,
MacLennans and MacRaes had settled in the district, the latter quickly rising
to the position of defenders and protectors of the MacKenzies. What
the Earldom could not achieve by one means it tried by another. In
1427, Euphemia, Countess of Ross, had already buried two husbands and was
now casting around for a third. Her eye fell upon the handsome young
Alexander MacKenzie to whom she lost no time in proposing marriage.
On being turned down, Euphemia promptly had him thrown into prison, and, taking
his signet ring, used this to lure Duncan MacAuley, Constable of Eilean Donan,
to Dingwall where she might by this means gain possession of the castle.
Duncan proved suspicious and discovering his master to be the prisoner of
the Countess, reciprocated by seizing her kinsman Walter Ross of Balnagown
to exchange. By this time, Euphemia had managed to put a garrison into
Eilean Donan but on arriving at the castle with their hostage, Duncan pretended
that they had come from the Countess to supply her garrison with grain.
Once inside the castle, her men were thrown out. In time, the Countess
agreed to the exchange and the young chief was released with the Countess
subsequently retiring to the Abbey of Elcho.
At some time, possibly in the later 15th century the castle was greatly reduced
in area. The old perimeter wall was dismantled and new defences enclosing
this reduced area were built.
The MacRaes, who formed the bodyguard of the Chief of Kintail first became
Constables of the Castle in 1509. They took control of the area and
the Clan was involved in many raids and sieges.
By the end of the 15th century, the Lordship of the Isles had effectively
been extinguished as a political force in the west. Nevertheless, despite
fierce opposition from the MacKenzies and MacLeods in the 1530s, Donald Gorm
MacDonald of Sleat foolishly attempted to revive the position and lay claim
to it himself. In 1539 Donald sailed to Applecross with 50 galleys
to lay waste in the MacKenzie lands there before heading south to lay siege
to Eilean Donan castle rumoured to be only lightly garrisoned.
Although the castle was held by only two men: John Dubh Matheson (the constable)
and a watchman, they bravely shut the gate against Donald's forces.
A young MacRae who was passing the castle at the time saw realized that they
were in danger and managed to join them. The besiegers resorted to
firing arrows at the windows. Unfortunately, the constable was hit,
which left only the watchman and the young MacRae to defend the castle.
Soon they found themselves running short of ammunition. Duncan MacRae
had only one arrow left and decided to keep it until he could use it to the
best possible advantage. Believing that victory was close, Donald Gorm
called for a battering ram and approached the castle walls to see where it
might be most effectively used. Duncan shot his final arrow at Donald
Gorm and hit him in the foot. Too impatient to wait for a physician,
Donald pulled it out himself and in so doing severed an artery on one of the
arrow's barbs. Blood poured out and couldn't be made to stop.
His men carried him to a little island near Ardintoul and it was there that
he died. Desperate for revenge, the MacDonalds tried unsuccessfully
to burn down the castle and then withdrew with the body of their chief.
After the castellan John Dubh Matheson was killed, a dispute arose between
MacRaes and MacLennans of Kintail who should have charge of Island Donan
Castle. To compromise the debate of these two clans, whom the Laird
MacKenzie found irreconcilable, fearing they should kill one another, the
laird of Faiburn advised Sir Kenneth who was the eleventh laird of Kintail
to appoint John MacMhurchaidh Dubh as Castellan of Island Donan Castle,
he being a stranger in the country. John remained Governor of Eilean
Donan for the rest of his life and John's son Murdoch "Maighister Mor" Murchison
followed him as Governor of the castle.
Gunpowder radically altered late medieval warfare and profoundly affected
military engineering and architecture. Special bastions were built
to accommodate them and it seem likely that this might have been part of
the purpose of the hornwork added to the south-east angle of Eilean Donan
probably sometime in the 15th century. Indeed, in clearing out the
reservoir at the base of this tower in the late 19th century, two brass handguns
of the period were dredged to the surface.
Murdo Murchison, vicar
of Kintail died in 1618. His successor, Mr. Farquhar believed it was
the duty of a vicar to enjoy to the full the gifts willingly given by his
flock. Consequently for many years, he oversaw his charges from a residence
within the castle where he lived in an opulent and flourishing condition,
much given to hospitality and charity. When Colin, Earl of Seaforth,
visited with his retinue of never less than three and sometimes five hundred
men, Mr. Farquhar provided the first two meals himself.
After Colin's death in 1633, Mr. Farquhar was confirmed in his position and
even entrusted with the tutelage of the new earl's son, George. Nevertheless
his wealth accumulated under the patrimony of the Seaforths and his obvious
personal influence with them rankled with others in the earl's immediate circle,
not least Simon MacKenzie of Lochslin, the earl's brother. On the eve
of an expedition to lend support to Charles II, Lochslin who was leading
the group refused to set out until Farquhar was removed from Eilean Donan.
The latter refused to leave without violence, lest his going might be interpreted
as an abdication of his right. Accordingly, a furious argument developed
which led to Farquhar being escorted to the gate and physically ejected from
the castle. Here, he petulantly turned on his tormentors claiming he
was 'well pleased to be rid of the island because it was a bad habitation
for a man of his age and corpulence.
In 1661 the Presbytery in Dingwall sat to hear the question of Mr. Farquhar's
expulsion, however wider political issues, namely the collapse of the Royalist
forces at Worcester confounded his hopes for redress.
In 1714 and in the light of the threatened rising of the clans, Brigadier
General Lewis Des Etans (1665-1720) was sent north by the Government to provide
information about the strength of defences in the Highlands. Among the
sketches he made of the castle is an exceptionally detailed view showing Eilean
Donan much as it must have appeared to Mr. Farquhar, and some five years
before it was blown up by Government troops.
Towards the end of 1718 a plot was hatched to try and recover the disgrace
of 1715. The plan was to land a strong force of Spaniards in England,
with a smaller force of Jacobites and Spaniards in the West Highlands there
to meet with the Highland contingent. The venture was fated from the
start for this latter day armada destined to land in the west of England
were badly crippled in a storm and had to limp home. The smaller contingent
heading for the west coast made to Stornoway and then on to Kintail where
some 300 Spanish troops were landed near to the castle. Here they were
to meet with a Highland force and march on Inverness.
The Government had by this time taken steps to block the entreprise.
A force set out from Inverness under the command of General Wightman to intercept
the Jacobite force. On 10th May 1719, three Government ships, the Enterprise,
the Worcester and the Flamborough under the command of Captain Boyle sailed
into Kintail and laid siege to the castle. After a short bombardment,
they captured its garrison of less than 50 Spaniards (commanded by a Captain
and Lieutenant) who had been left there to guard one of two ammunition stores.
Taken aboard the frigates, the Spanish soldiers were shipped back to Leith
and imprisoned there. The ships' logs containing details of these events
are given on the Clan MacRae UK web site.
The Clan MacRae had a special gathering in August 2000 and events included
a re-enactment of the bombardment of the castle by the Royal Navy in 1719.
As for the castle's destruction, there are several versions. One is
that the troops from the English ships entered the castle, discovered the
gun powder and damaged enough of the building to render it unusable - leaving
it open to the ravages of time and the weather (by which it subsequently
fell into complete ruin). However the Dornie Manuscript contains a
different account of the destruction of Eilean Donan Castle:
At this juncture Colonel
Donald Murchison and Christopher MacRae son of Inverinate were busily engaged
in fortifying the stronghold of Donan Castle and shortly thereafter a Government
ship of war went into Loch Duich, and opened a brisk fire on the Castle which
the defenders found to be irresistible. Colonel Donald Murchison with
his customary intrepid and vivid conceptions came to the conclusion that
if Government got possession of the castle, a garrison would be planted there;
that it would then become impossible to defend the country from the depredation
of the Red Coats, and that they (the Sasanachs) would become a source of
great annoyance to the Earl of Seaforth and his faithful adherants; therefore
he concluded in the dilemma that their safest course would be to blow up
the castle by setting a match to the powder magazine in the Fort, which proposition
was at once complied with, so that it was laid in ruins. Tradition
says that all the silver plate and other valuables in the castle were thrown
into the Fort. Donald Murchison is commemorated by the Murchison Memorial
which stands a few miles from the castle. The tall memorial, surrounded
by heather, overlooks Lochalsh. The inscription reads:
Tulloch Ard
To the memory of Donald
Murchison
Colonel in the Highland
Army of 1715
He successfully defended
and faithfully
preserved the lands of Kintail and Lochalsh
from 1715 to 1722 for his chief, William,
the exiled Earl of Seaforth
It
was erected by his great-grand-nephew Sir Roderick Murchison 1863, and restored
by his grand-nephew Kenneth Massie Cox Murchison 1928. The monument
was commissioned by Sir Roderick Impy Murchison, Scotland's famous geologist.
Apparently it was later struck by lightning and damaged, whereupon Sir Kenneth
Murchison was contacted and asked what should be done about repairing it.
The story relates that he sent the money for repairs with the admonition
not to let it happen again.
The castle ruins remained neglected for 200 years until 1912 when Lt. Col.
John MacRae-Gilstrap, grandfather of the present Constable of Eilean Donan,
decided it was time to restore the family fortress. He was helped by
Farquhar MacRae who had a dream which told him exactly what the original structure
had looked like. This was later confirmed by old plans kept in Edinburgh
Castle. The rebuilt castle was completed in 1932 at a cost of a quarter
of a million pounds according to the guidebook. More information about
this is given in an interview with Marigold MacRae, head of the clan.
Excerpts from
an article written by Joanne Mackenzie-Winter
with information taken from the castle's guidebooks.
Eilean Donan stands on a rocky
island at the junction of three lochs - Loch Alsh, Loch Long, and Loch Duich.
Castle Photographs (Exterior)
Castle Photographs (Interior)
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